Momos are the obvious starting point — steamed or fried dumplings filled with buffalo, chicken, or vegetables, served with a spicy tomato-based achar. But Nepali food goes well beyond that, and Thamel is one of the best places to try it all in one trip.
Look for dal bhat, the everyday staple of lentil soup, rice, and vegetable curries, often served with unlimited refills at small local eateries. Newari specialties like choila, a spiced grilled meat dish, and yomari, a sweet rice-flour dumpling, are worth seeking out at dedicated Newari restaurants.
Ask the staff at Tulsi Kathmandu Hotel for their personal favorites — most are happy to point you toward the small, family-run spots that don’t always show up in guidebooks.