Just a ten-minute walk from Thamel, Kathmandu Durbar Square is a cluster of temples, courtyards, and the former royal palace, much of it dating back centuries. Despite earthquake damage over the years, restoration work has kept the square very much alive and in daily use.
Look out for the Kumari Ghar, home to Nepal’s living goddess, and the intricately carved wooden windows of the old palace buildings. Local guides at the entrance can bring the history to life far better than a plaque ever could.
Because it sits so close to Thamel, guests staying at Tulsi Kathmandu Hotel often visit twice — once during the day for the architecture, and again in the evening when the square empties out and the lighting changes completely.